A weekend away in...

Port of Veracruz

NOTE: I spent 11 years living in tropical Miami and I have a weak spot for high heat and excessive sun. Which means the moment I got smacked with Veracruzano humidity, I was hooked. What Veracruz lacks in decent beaches is more than made up for in fresh fish, amazing ruins, smiling locals, and a very uniquely-Caribbean-but-also-not cultural vibe.

Because I stayed just 1 night, I’m focusing on the Historic District only. I promise to expand this entry with another, highly anticipated visit.

Start your day with…
A buffet breakfast at Restaurante Condimento in the Hotel Emporio. If you can, try their opulent Mar y Tierra lunch buffet Fridays - Sundays.

Get a Veracruzano café lechero at the iconic Gran Cafe de la Parroquia, open since 1808.

The traditional crafts market is just a few steps away from Gran Cafe. Here you can buy local coffee, vanilla, dessert liquors, and beautiful hand-crafted bags and clothes.

Visit the fortress of San Juan de Ulua…
I didn’t get to do this, but I wanted to (and I will upon my inevitable return). Daily tours are available of the 1500s fortress-turned-military base-turned-prison. Plus, everyone has been here. Even Cortés.

Head to the Zócalo for a late lunch at Mariscos Villa Rica
No no no, you don’t understand. The seafood here is out of this world. Now is the time to stuff yourself silly with ceviche, cazuela, and a whole fried fish with a side of warm tortillas, plenty of limes, lots of water, and all the white wine you can handle because you are on vacation my friend!

Watch the danzón…
My fingers are fully crossed that you have the chance to see the danzón. Everyone who’s anyone in this town dons their Sunday’s best (I’m talking heels, spinny skirts, berets, tropical button-downs) to dance with a live orchestra in the middle of the town square. The danzón lasts exactly one hour, from 7 - 8 pm, at which point everyone seems to…

Split for an ice cream…
Literally anywhere, though if I were to guess, the snaking line at the ¡Pásele Güero Güera! ice cream truck on the malecón is a good indicator of its quality.

Walk it off along the malecón…
I’d venture to say that it’s full of strolling families any day of the week. It’s a really lovely stroll along the water, with views of the twinkling ships and skyline of Boca del Rio. Bring some cash in case you’re in the market for a butterfly-adorned pashmina or brightly-hued crop top. If you’re an early riser, this would be a great power walk option, as it continues to the beach and fisherman’s village.

Hotels:
Hotel Emporio. I loved this hotel for the view, the bed, the staff, the pumping AC, and the way it seemed to transport me directly to Miami in its 1980’s heyday (without the shootings).

Activity Suggestions:
A day trip to El Tajin. It’s far, about 2 hours, but if you’re a ruins person, this is not to be missed. Here you can catch the famous Voladores of Papantla as well.
Water sports of any kind. You can rent boats, paddle boards, catamarans, and whatever other water-sportsy things you might be interested in.
While not totally my cup of tea, I have heard amazing things about the Aquarium del Puerto de Veracruz.

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