A weekend away in...

Western Turkey

Turkey cannot be done in a weekend. Clearly. But a taste of it can be done behind the wheel of a rental car.

Starting in Istanbul…
Without a doubt one of the coolest cities in the world. It’s also one of the most crowded, so if you are renting a car, I would NOT recommend bringing it to the center. Spend some days in Istanbul and pick up the car later. I stayed in beautiful Beyoğlu for its central location and walkability.

Start your mornings with…
A few things.

Tea. Everyone drinks it. I know Turkish coffee is a thing, but the reality is, tea is the thing. I have never seen so much tea consumption in my life. From morning till night, this is the only thing the locals seem to drink.
A simit. AKA a Turkish bagel. Go super early to the bakery and get it HOT.
Turkish breakfast. A never ending spread of veggies, olives, cheeses, meats, breads, dips, jams, butters, eggs…it is guaranteed to satisfy nearly any palette. Not a breakfast person? In Turkey, you are.

Spend your afternoons…
Seeing as much as you possibly can. The Hagia Sofia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, Grand Bazaar. Walk the bridge, take the ferry to Kadiköy to wander the massive street market, finish your evening sipping on excellent Turkish wine or raki at one of the sexy restaurants near Galata Tower like Restaurant Mabou or Salon Galata.

Hotels
Since I stayed in an Airbnb, I cannot vouch for anything beyond the aesthetic of Soho House. Is it scene-y? Yes, very much so. Is it a converted, ultra-grand, possibly haunted, ridiculously stunning Ottoman Palace? Also yes, so whip out your CC and book a room ASAP.

Activity Suggestions
Highly recommend getting your fortune told through the ancient art of reading coffee grounds while also learning a bit about Turkish coffee and its history.

Continue to Wine Country…
Turkish wine is so underrated. While I’m partial to whites, every single wine I tasted was creative and surprising. Which is why all wine lovers can sail right on past Izmir in favor of Urla.

Activity Suggestions
Either take a tour of several wineries or choose your own. We visited Urla Winery, amongst others, and had dinner outdoors at OD Urla, Turkey’s equivalent to The French Laundry.

Continue to Alaçati or Cesme…
We stayed in Alaçati (just 30 minutes driving from Urla) and while it was beautiful and very Greek Islandy, it catered to a younger, party crowd. When I return, I’d opt to try Cesme instead. I can’t remember the name of our hotel. We literally chose one on the map, walked into reception, and paid on the spot.

Leave early to visit Ephesus…
Drive along the coast to Ephesus, one of the best-preserved Greek Cities anywhere. It’s touristy but it’s incredible. No no you can’t miss it. Bring a hat, shade is hard to find.

And slow down with a night or two in Sirince…
A small mountain village reminiscent of Italy just 20 minutes from the ancient city. Wander the hilly streets, try the (totally disgusting) fruit wine that the town is known for, enjoy leisurely meals, and magnificent views of rolling hills dotted with white washed houses. Visit St. John the Baptist Church and Aziz Dimitrius church, perched on a cliff. Sirince is a true step back in time, and the laid back local life reflects that. It’s a beautiful place to catch your breath.

Take a coastal drive toward Kas…
There are so many coastal towns you could feasibly stop in along this route, from Bodrum to Datça to Marmaris to Dalaman. We drove to Kas and stopped off in posh Fethiye for two reasons:

To climb the Amyntas Rock Tombs
To wander the marina and look at pricey boutique shops

While we seriously considered staying in Fethiye for a night, our hotel in Kas was already booked and the staff was not-so-patiently awaiting our arrival. Kas is your typical Euro-style seaside town for visitors with money. I loved it. It’s clean and cobbly and full of sexy people, fancy shops, and dimly lit restaurants on the water offering the catch of the day. As far as where to eat, honestly it doesn’t matter. We did not have one bad meal in Turkey, so you’re good with whatever you choose.

Spend your afternoons…
Ferrying to Limanağzı Koyu to lounge by the water with a Turkish beer and fresh, iced almonds. If you want a bit of adventure, hike back. Is it safe? I think so. I mean, my friend and I survived and I was in sandals. There was a brief brush with a stray dog…but otherwise totally fine!

Activity Suggestions
Rent a private boat for the day. We did it through our hotel. We sailed and swam, and ate from a fruit tray on a floaty while we relaxed in the Med. It included a stop in the small town of Kalaköy where we hiked to the top of a castle ruin for unparalleled views of the striking turquoise sea and the rocks jutting out of it.

Hotel
Hotel Luna was clean, easy, and had wonderful views because it was perched a bit higher up on one of the many hills that make Kas feel a bit like San Francisco. I liked it, but I would prefer next time to stay in something more glamorous and closer to the sea.

More coastal driving to Antalya…
Istanbul’s liberal, alternative, tattooed little brother who skips the mosque and goes instead to a rock concert. Antalya was SO cool, I loved the humid weather and the quirky bars, and here is where I had the most incredible hammam experience of my life.

Spend your afternoons…
Visiting the Antalya Archaeological Museum, seeing Hadrian’s Gate, walking the old town Kaleiçi, and otherwise following the advice of The Crazy Tourist. By this point in the trip, we were pretty tired, so perhaps we didn't see all the sites (like the waterfalls), but we walked a wild amount and got a fantastic feel for the city.

Activity Suggestions
AKA The most important piece of advice I can impart.
Book a visit to 15th century Sefa Hammam. As tradition dictates, all masseuses are male and if you are female you must verbally consent to this. Perhaps one day I will craft a blog post about this deeply emotional experience, but for the time being I ask that you just trust me on this one. You must go.

Hotel
Hotel Lykeia Old Town was a sweet, gentle, lovely experience. I do believe some of the rooms are a bit noisy but settle that ahead of time with the receptionist. I loved staying in its quirky rooms and drinking tea in its lovely courtyard garden. The location was unbeatable, and the staff was friendly. But again, who in Turkey wasn’t?

Drive back to Istanbul….
And make it more of an adventure by cutting directly through the country. Pass through fields of sunflowers and olive groves until you hit Isparta, famous for its rugs. We perused one of the biggest street markets I’d ever seen, selling everything from fresh walnuts to fresh meat. Continue on to Kutahya for pottery, tiles, and Roman ruins. There are thermal towns to stay along the way if you need an overnight. We did that, it was weird and funny, but not necessary whatsoever. I’m not even gonna get into it.

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